Friday, November 4, 2011

KoNkOrOnS!!!

So with the end of rainy season here in Senegal comes the Konkorans.....what's that you ask??  It's probably one of the scariest things you'll ever see face to face, if you're ever so lucky.  These things come out when the boys of the village go off to the forest for circumcision. When the Konkorans do come out they are followed by an entourage of young men and boys, oftentimes shouting and yelling and playing drums.  The Konkorans usually have giant machetes that they carry high in their hands ready to attack.  Covered in tree bark, the Konkorans wander around pulaar and mandinka villages chasing women and children. 

Dancing Konkoran at one of the end of the season ceremonies
The Konkoran I chased down
Dancing Konkoran

The first time I saw one of these was last year after being in Senegal for about one month.  We went to visit our permanent sites, and me along with 7 other Kolda region volunteers encountered our first Konkoran on the main road leaving Velingara and on the way to Kounkane (my site).  We had no idea what this creepy creature with 2 machetes was, that emerged from the forest with his group of dancing men. Later we learned that konkorans are a tradition and a very important part of the pulaar culture (at least in the Kolda region).  Last year I vowed to get a photo, but by the time we installed the Konkoran/circumcision season was over.  This year, I got lots of pictures.  It's a little difficult to do because the Konkoran doesn't want you to take its photo. Sometimes they will hit you or chase after you if you try.  I chased down a Konkoran and his boys one day and paid him 500cfa (about 1USD equivalent) to take his pic.

At the ceremony...dancing Konkoran

The last day of the Konkorans for this year was at the end of October right before school started.  That day there were 11 Konkorans in Kounkane. Eleven! I went to about 3 different Konkoran spottings, and I watched them dance.  It was really awesome. I even paid another Konkoran to get pics of it with me! My host brothers told me that if the Konkoran or one of his men asks me where my children are, I have to tell them that my brothers were my children.  If I didn't, I was warned that the Konkoran would hit me because he likes to hit women who haven't bore children. Luckily, I was never asked......

Last day of the Konkorans this year
Me and the Konkorans!!! :)

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