Friday, January 21, 2011

Fashion Statement of the Month!


I was at the looma (large market) in Diaobe (roadside town about 8k from Kounkane) this past wednesday.  I love going there even though it's really crowded, a little dangerous (pickpocketers), and incredibly loud.  The Diaobe experience is a little like going to the fair: tons of people, many vendors, more fried food/street food than you can handle, etc.  Every wednesday, the town of Diaobe hosts the weekly market, in fact, it is considered to be the largest weekly market in West Africa! You can get so much stuff there. I've been there quite a few times, usually I just go on a whim. But this past wednesday, I accompanied my lovely Pamela to Diaobe.  I got there sooner than Pam (I was coming from Kounkane and she from Velingara). I ate a delicious bean sandwhich for breakfast, and when Pam arrived, we went shopping! :) I love the selection of things one can buy there, anything from honey, blankets, tools, live animals, and veggies among others. I love to buy lots of fruit there too! You can get oranges, bananas, and apples right now.  Soon mangos will be in season; I can't wait! :) The best thing about loomas, is that you can find some really random things there. And what I purchased this week will probably shock many of you.  I'm dedicating this blog post to my newest additon to my wacky Senegalese wardrobe: Jellies. Yes, Jellies.  Do you remember them? From the eighties and early nineties, perhaps that rings a bell? If you have no idea what I'm talking about please refer to the following wikipedia link for more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jelly_shoes :)
Rockin the Jellies! :)
Yes, I bought a pair of transparent, light pink jellies.  In fact, I remember owning a pair when I was like 4 or 5 years old and I loved them! According to my mom, I wore them everywhere.  Well, when I saw these shoes sitting in the market,  I knew I had to buy them, and only because it is completely acceptable to wear them here.  Imagine me rocking these beauties in the USA.....can not be done...at least not now.....
Here in Senegal, lots of people wear jellies, especially in my region. So I justify my random purchase as a need for further integration into my community :) I love the random things you can find here....
Yes, I will wear these...

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Biked 100k to Kolda


En jaraama from Senegal :)
Today my good friend Alyson, my site mate Geoff, and I biked from Kounkane (mine and Geoff's village) all the way to Kolda, the city.  We woke up early, left by 7:00am, and set out on paved road.  It started off good. The weather was cool; I was actually a little chilly. We encountered our first hill probably 10 minutes into the ride, and I'm a terrible biker to start, so that was not very fun for me.  Before I came to Senegal, it had been like 4 years (or something crazy like that) since I've actually ridden a bike.  I was not prepared to bike through the bush paths of rural Senegal, which is typically the norm for me now.  Luckily this trip was on the route national, so it was "paved" but it had lots and lots of pot holes and what seemed like a million steep hills.  The last 15k is the worst because it has deep pot holes all over the road which we were trying to avoid, but at the same time all these cars were coming by, and they were trying to avoid them too.  The cars nearly run you off the road! But we got there safely, Grace a dieu! So it took me about 6.5 hours to get there on bicycle, and the distance is about 100 kilometers if not slightly more.  It was the longest bike ride I've ever done, and quite challenging if I say so myself. Look at the southern region of Kolda. (Kounkane to Kolda)
It looks small, but that's 100K!!!
I am so exhausted now, but I'm so glad I did it.  It feels like I've achieved something....I really think I may do that ride like 5-6 times a year depending on the season (definitely won't happen during dry and hot season).  I figured it would be a good way to lose my excess weight?? Inchallah? Another reason I decided to do the ride from Kounkane to Kolda is because on March 9th, 2011, I will be doing it again with a bunch of other volunteers, four of which will be doing the trek on donkey. Yes, Donkey. It's for a really good cause. If anyone is interested in donating or just inquiring about Kounkane's newest project, check out the attached link.  My site mates, Geoff and Shamis, and two other volunteers (Curtis and Mike) are the ones who will be doing the donkey ride to create awareness of malnutrition in the area and the importance of moringa use. :) Don't worry, I will have an amazing post for the Donkey race, so stay tuned!

http://www.youtube.com/user/KoldaDonkeyRally
 Off topic things that have happened since the last post: my camera crapped out--all the pictures come out completely white-washed like there is a thick layer of fog in front of the camera....no bueno.  Also, I'm in the process of searching out projects in my village (I will hopefully have something soon!), and now I'm currently in Kolda to go over the regions goals for 2011 :)
On a more random note: Mail from Senegal gets to the UK and Japan, but not the USA (Nobody got their Xmas letters from me back home) Bizarre! Hope everyone is having an amazing January!  

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

La Lutte: Yekini vs. Bombardier

Happy 2011 tout le monde! :)
First blog post of the year is about a sport here in Senegal that my host family (and many others in Senegal) are crazy about: La Lutte aka Wrestling. On January 2nd, there was a big match between 2 popular wrestlers here in Senegal, Yekini and Bombardier.  {On a random side thought, I actually saw Yekini during my Christmas week in Dakar with my brother Djiby.  Yekini was massive! He was walking out of a gym near the beach when I saw him, and I knew instantly that he was one of Senegal's beloved lutteurs.} So this is the first time that I actually saw one of these matches.  My family was so excited about it; everywhere I went people asked me if I was going to watch the wrestling match tonight. When the time came, my cousin Julde came knocking on my door yelling, "Salimatu, the match is about to start! Are you coming?!?" (all said in Pulaar of course).  I hurried to the room with the t.v. (yes, my family has electricity) and sat down to see what all the fuss was about.  My initial thoughts were probably a little judgemental: Big giant men that are like the equivalent to a Sumo wrestler walking around in granny panties and weird African jewlery participating in an African dance party before fighting. They paraded around before entering the ring pouring weird liquids over their heads and down their bodies, liquids that looked like used cooking oil, motor oil, prune juice, cake batter, or a combination of all? When the match began, they would paw at each other softly like playing cats for what seems like 20 minutes, and the real action of punching and wrestling only lasts for what seems like 1 minute, if even that.  Yes, I thought it was really weird......

Photograph by Beatrix Jourdan: http://www.beatrixjourdan.com/
So I decided to ask my family to explain this beloved sport to me.  Apparently Senegalese wrestling is an old tradition and a big part of the culture.  There is a big spirtual side to the sport (much like everything else here), so I wasn't too surprised.  Before the wrestlers start the match, they partake in various spiritual rituals and ceremonies, hence the dousing of strange liquids all over their bodies.  The wrestlers consult with a "marabout" or what would be a witch doctor equivalent (there are quite a few people who use them in my region!)  The wrestlers will dance around the arena doing traditional dances wearing their "gris gris" (that's what we call it down here in the pulaar regions).  Gris Gris are basically amulets (bracelets, necklaces, belts, etc).  They wear them around their legs, arms, waist, neck, etc.  The gris gris is suppossed to protect the wrestler from evil spirits and the witchcraft/magic of other wrestlers, and they also contain magical powers that will help the wrestler win. After the marabouts give the wrestlers the gris gris and say special prayers and chants, the wrestlers pour the "liquids" on them, which are magical too. The marabouts prepare the magical liquid from his own special recipe....I don't think anyone but the marabouts really know what that liquid is? When this spiritual preparation is over, then the wrestlers are ready to fight. :) I really had no idea wrestling involved so much?  Now that I understand it better, I find it to be a little more interesting. It's amazing how much people here are into the spiritual side of things; I'm finding that out more and more everyday. :) 

Photograph by Beatrix Jourdan: http://www.beatrixjourdan.com/



Well, my family was happy that their favorite wrestler, Yekini won, and I was happy to make it through my first Senegalese wrestling match. It's probably something I don't have the desire to watch again, but then again, I've never been interested in wrestling.  After watching the match I felt a little ashamed for judging the sport so harshly in the begining, I mean, C'mon!, we have WWF in America, and that's just bad t.v. all around. :p
Photograph by Beatrix Jourdan: http://www.beatrixjourdan.com/


Check it out!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoWxnUXRLw8

Friday, December 31, 2010

Bismillah 2011!

Wow! Another year came and went--Au revoir 2010; you were a good but hectic year. It's hard to believe that we are saying good-bye to a year that feels like it barely just begun.  As the new year approaches I would like to dedicate this blog post as a reflection on all the events that occured in my life during 2010:

I went back to working full-time on the NPIC contract at my job at the time (which was amazing because we all dropped down to 32 hours with the bad economy during slow times); therefore allowing me to pay off my visa credit card balance from my travels abroad during 2008.  I also obtained two other amazing part-time jobs teaching as a dance workout instructor at 24 Hour Fitness and Pure Fitness.  Teaching dance has been one of the BEST jobs I've ever had...i miss it terribly.  I met some AMAZING people in my classes!  I loved going to work, and I was in the best shape of my life so far (which I can honestly say, I am no longer in the same shape because I live off white rice and oily sauces here). I've gained an estimated, unwanted 6 pounds....In two years I hope to go back to teaching--inchallah. :)
In addition, I sold my beloved car Scarlett to my awesome uncle, I sold my furniture to my co-worker before his marriage, and I gave my father my cellphone literally 15 minutes before boarding a plane to Washington DC for staging, which he does not use.  I packed up my entire life and everything I own and crammed it into a small closet in my parents spare bedroom to sit and collect dust for the next two years. I had a month and a half during the summer to wrap up life and tie up loose ends in the United States and get ready for a new one in Senegal.  I spent some time with friends, family, Mike, Tiffany, and of course Mael. I moved to another continent, relocated to Thies, then Mbour and finally Kounkane. I learned a new language in 4 months (it's still pretty rough, but I can get around).  I learned how to use a squat toilet/douche and take bucket baths. I've been sick on and off since I've arrived in country, but love every minute of this experience. I celebrated a series of my first Muslim holidays including: Korite, Tabaski, Ramadan, etc. I've tried new dishes, traveled around most of Senegal, learned how to use public transportation and get around in a third world country. I've learned how to kill cockroaches instead of screaming and running in the opposite direction, which is what I used to do in the USA. I've gained two new sets of families: the Diallos and the Baldes. I drank more Attaya that anyone should in a lifetime.  I've met some really amazing people who I serve with in the Peace Corps including my bffs in country: Ali and Pam! I said good-bye to my family and boyfriend knowing I probably won't return to the USA in the next two years.  And I worked my butt off for 8 months trying to save enough money to pay my private loans while I'm gone, and was only successful in saving enough for 15 months (not bad, considering my short window of time). I also read lots of books including: The Girl with the Dragon Tatoo, The Girl who played with Fire, The Other Boelyn Girl, On Love, The Girl with the Pearl Earring, The Kite Runner, Eat. Pray. Love, and The Hours.
Wow! There's so much more too, but I figured I'd just highlight the more interesting stuff.  Yes, 2010 was a good year: a transition year.  But here I am now in Senegal until October 2012, and I'm so very happy to be here.  I hope I can accomplish a lot in 2011!  I wish everyone has an amazing New Year's celebration! I toast to a happy year and good health for everyone! May it be a prosperous year! Best wishes for 2011! Bismillah! :)

Monday, December 27, 2010

Merry Christmas!

Hope everyone had an amazing Christmas!!! :) Can't believe it has already past!  My Christmas was good! I spent a week in Dakar with some amazing people! We spent some time on the beach, eating great food, and passing the time with Peace Corps friends and family :)  It was such and expensive week, but it was definetly worth it :) We even went to the French cultural center to watch a film. We saw "A Nightmare Before Christmas" in French--it almost felt like Christmas with the movie and the xmas lights! Good times!  Towards the end of the week, Ali, Jes, and I left the PC regional house and stayed at the third year apartment that our friend Darren let us use while he went home to America for the holidays.  Thanks Darren!  :)  We spent Christmas eve eating cheese and crackers by candlelight and enjoying the beautiful view of the dark city and ocean from the window of the apartment.  We even made "dirt"--Ali's recipe: chocolate pudding, crushed Oreos, and gummy worms. Yes, very nutritional :) hahahaha! It was fun! 
Christmas day was great, even though we were so far away from our families.  We served appetizers of cheese and crackers, chips and dip, fresh veggies, and wine.  For the main course, Ali and I cooked a giant dinner of pesto pasta with mushrooms and artichoke hearts and l'emmental cheese, a fresh green bean salad with tomatos, carrots, green bell pepers, and other veggies drizzled in balsamic vinegar and olive oil.  Ali used some fresh olive bread and made a buttery garlic sauce to garnish it. :) For dessert we baked a chocolate cake (from a bag) and put out a box of assorted xmas cookies to accompany our vin chaud (mulled wine).  We ate so much, but it really was a nice dinner!  We really wanted to bake some Christmas cookies but we couldn't find chocolate chips, baking powder, graham crackers (or anything remotely similar), and the shredded coconut was too expensive for our "village pay" But we still had a pleasant enjoyable Christmas at Darren's borrowed apartment.  It just six of us celebrating together: Me, Ali, Jess, Mohammed (Ali's friend from Niger), my host brother Djiby, and a random Senegalese man that Mohammed invited and I forgot his name (We share everything in Africa--it's part of the culture, so it wasn't really a big deal that we had a stranger at our Chrismas dinner). 

Random Senegalese man, Jes, Mohammed, Ali, and Djiby on Xmas dinner
After the big dinner, Jess and I found some Talibe (children that beg for money on the streets in the name of their Maribou, or Islamic leader).  We brought down a few bowls of food to feed the Talibe.  They seemed to enjoy it :)  The kids are so cute and they all speak pulaar.They were given away by their parents for various reasons (oftentimes because they can't afford to take care of them) and sent to Islamic school to study the Koran. Part of their "learning" is to go on the streets and ask for monetary contribution for their Maribou. Some of it is legitamate and the kids are well taken care of, and sometimes, like most things, corruption plays a big part.  It breaks my heart sometimes to see the Talibe, but I know it's culturally acceptable and it's something I have to respect and realize it's just different from my culture....
The Talibe eating some Christmas dinner
Well, Merry Christmas to all of you! I miss you a lot!  I'm currently in Tambacounda for 2 days and then I'll be heading to Velingara tomorrow to check for care packages! :) yea!  Next stop is Kolda for New Years then back to site!  Wishing everyone a beautiful Christmas season full of love and happiness!  xoxoxo :)

Thursday, December 16, 2010

In-Service Training....

En jaraama from Thies!  Yes, I'm still here....I'm almost done with my in-service training.  It's like being in school again.  I have 4 two hour sessions a day: two in the morning and two after lunch.  We have been learning various things.  I've had learning sessions on food transformation (yea!!! definetly a potential project for me), sector collaboration, creating GIEs, teaching business consulting, accounting for the illiterate, and much much more.  My mind is on overload; I've been learning so much!  Tomorrow me and two others in my program have to do a presentation in French over calculating costs.  It should be interesting....But I'm almost done with training--saturday is the last day.  It's been a little hectic, but I really have enjoyed some of the sessions.  I feel like I'm learning quite a bit, and I'm starting to get some ideas of projects I can do at my site. :)
Last weekend we had a field trip to Dakar for the Artisinal Expo!  I had so much fun there and bought way tooo much!  There were various pieces of art made by local artisans in Senegal.  I bought some jewlery and greeting cards!  I couldn't help myself; the artisans created some beautiful things!  There were also various art works including: Basaari masks, hand-crafted wooden chairs, Senegalese style clothes, and and assortment of home-made jams and juice concentrates in local fruits like bissap, tamarind, etc. I saw a lot of wood carved figurines and paintings too!  There was a large selection of beaded, hand-made jewlery like bracelets, earrings, and necklaces also. Check out some of the goods I bought!  It was a fun way to pass a saturday afternoon, and it was amazing to see what some of the local artists create.
 
Some of the bracelets I bought at the expo

Artisan Expo
So what's left on the agenda??  Well, today is technically New Year's Day for the Muslim calendar. I missed the party last night because I'm away from my family.  There's always next year right?  I am done with training on saturday, and then I'll be heading up to Dakar for a week to celebrate Christmas with my Peace Corps family!  Stayed tuned for a more interesting blog--inchallah! Bisous! xxx







Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Left site for the month...

Happy December!!!
Can you believe this year is almost over? I can't.  So it is December and I'm approaching my fourth month of service (including training).  What have I been up to since my Thanksgiving feast you ask?? Well, I went back to site and my family showed up with a beautiful puppy!  They named him Chocolat (pronounced the french way) and he is the typical Senegalese dog that you see everywhere: white with brown spots.  He is adorable, and by default he officially became my puppy.  I will probably be the only one who will take care of him. But he is so cute; I just couldn't resist. He better be a good dog--inchallah. 


I spent a few days at site, left for Tamba, and spent the night there.  We had to head up to Thies for the All volunteer conference, and because I live so far away in Kolda, I spent two days getting up there.  The All Vol conference was a two-day conference where all the volunteers in Senegal and a few from the Gambia, Togo, and Burkina Faso congregated for learning and sharing information.  I learned a lot of new things, and the conference made me eager to start working.  I even went on a bee keeping field trip. Nice.  When the conference ended, my stage stayed in Thies because we have our in-service training for the next two weeks.  I've been learning lots of interesting SED stuff.  I really can't wait to start working. 
Well, I am missing site.  I really love it down south.  Now I"m in Wolof country and I don't speak the language.  Sometimes I can find a few random pulaar speakers scattered throughout the city, but I usually have to switch to French.  One positive thing I have discovered is that my Pulaar has improved tremendously!  This past sunday, I went back to Mbour with Ali and Pam to visit our PST family (when I was still a Diallo).  I was able to hold on a conversation with them for a long time; I have indeed improved in the last 5 weeks! Yea!!! I still have a lot to learn, but it is always refreshing and encouraging to know that I have made improvements.  :)
I hope everyone is enjoying the Christmas season!  I am missing that--it is seriously non-existent here...maybe in Dakar I can find some Christmas-y things?? I'll keep y'all updated!
Sending love from Senegal! xxx